No Beef

Some time ago I promised to post more pictures from our trip to Old Dhaka. Us, that was five white kids and a brown one (the brown one being me *hint*). Taking off from Gulshan towards Old Dhaka at around 8 am on a Friday cloudy morning was about half an hour later than planned. Of course I was the one being late. But I had a good excuse: on my way there my bus bumped into another one and that one took the back gear to bump back into us. Both drivers knew each other and continued their bumpy relationship via mobile phone.

Old Dhaka is the capital’s most historic part with lots of unique architecture, which is in danger of destruction. Narrow alleys, friendly people and hidden charms make this place a spot to visit for tourists as well as locals.

Arriving in Old Dhaka, we made it through the day with a “Lonely Planet” and asking people for direction and advice. And I must say, it was one of the best trips ever, despite the rainy weather and an fairly empty stomach. Walking around “Hindu Street”, a name I have never heard before and probably never will unless taking the “Lonely Planet” with me, we saw lots of hidden mosques and Hindu temples. On our way to Ahsan Manzil, the 140 year old “Pink Palace”, we passed street vendors selling meat – nothing special unless it is Turtle meat.

First thought: disgusting.
Second thought: disgusting.
Third thought: If we eat cow and chicken, other people might eat Turtle.

Turtles are haram, therefore not permitted for Muslims. Hindus however are not allowed to eat cow, so Turtles might be an alternative. I can still hear the cracking of the shell and the yell “oh no - they killed Leonardo, Raphael, Donatello and Michelangelo”.

After a brief stint at Ahsan Manzil we walked on towards the harbor at Buriganga River. If you are around with five white people, fifty people start gathering to stare, take pictures and talk nonsense. We got used to it. From huge trucks stacked with bananas to Rickshaws being used as pineapple pick-ups, this area is a key distribution point.

As we were on our way to the Armenian Church and missed it according to our map, we went on to visit the Tara Masjid/Star Mosque. The mosque itself is not too large, yet a tourist spot because of its detailed mosaic work and unique architecture. We were fortunate enough to be granted entrance, since it was Friday and Jumah only a little time away.
Outside the mosque we were told that the Armenian Church is just “around the corner” so we figured to take a walk. And it wasn’t actually too far. This church was built by Armenians, who came to Dhaka a few centuries ago to do business. Settling down in Old Dhaka, the area they lived in became to be called “Armanitola”. Nowadays no more services take place in the church. There isn’t an Armenian society anymore and the church itself is being taken care of mostly by non-Christians. Yet it was interesting to see, apart from the Hinduistic traces in Bangladesh, other religions living side by side with Islam. Side note: Apart from Islamic holidays, Buddhist, Hindu and Christian holidays are nationwide holidays as well.

Almost missing out on Rickshaw Art in Bangsal Road, we were approached by a shop-owner who opened his shop for us to earn an extra Taka. From there on, we headed towards Lalbagh Fort, our last stop for the day. The huge park and recreational area of the fortress provided a relaxing end to this adventurous day. Although the fort was never completed, it is still an impressive site with its structures, gardens and lakes.

Returning to Gulshan, we decided on a late lunch. Too bad though, that “Roti, Ghosht ar Chauwal” as well as our favorite spot “Gulshan Khabar Ghar” were both closed. So we ended up at “Kosturi” to enjoy a traditional Bangladeshi meal. Good day, good people.